#63 A Mongolian Poppy, Opium, and Terelj National Park ~ YellowFlowerDayTheContestsofPetals 🇲🇳 蒙古的野罂粟&鸦片&特勒吉国家公园

https://steemitimages.com/DQmNShxohRThkmH4RWZSj56Pywz6pYGGd83Q11M2KmD5mJA/YellowPoppyMongolia.JPG

I shot this yellow poppy flower in Gorkhi-Terelj National Park(see my second photo below) in Mongolia. I took a couple of trains from Moscow all the way to Ulaanbaatar and explored the surrounds. The park is about 2 hours’ drive from the capital city Ulaanbaatar. I hiked in this beautiful huge park and spent one night in a typical Mongolian ger camp in the valley, by the clear Tuul River. When I hiked(half-climbed) to a hilltop in the valley, I found this pretty little yellow poppy standing in the wild. The view in the second picture is also from this hilltop.

The Poppy Flowers

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The first poppy flowers I’ve seen in my life were red ones, like the well-known symbol of Remembrance that people often worn on November 11th each year. When I lived in Belgium, I visited Ypres in west Flanders - where the red poppies were blossoming as in the devastated battlefields in the First World War. The red color of the poppies is like the soldiers’ blood soaking the ground. In 1915, a Canadian doctor and commander, John McCrae lost his friend in the battle in Ypres, and he was inspired by the red poppies in the fields to write the poem - ‘In Flanders Fields’.

There is also the Himalayan blue poppy. These rare blue poppies are native to the high Himalayan Mountains, and are difficult to grow.

The Opium & China

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So you must have heard of opium? Among the many varieties of poppies, the opium poppy (Papaver somniferum) , as you can see from its name, has the highest concentration of narcotics, and is illegal to grow in many countries. Opium has been used for medical purpose, and poppy seeds are regarded as a great food source.

The cultivation of opium poppy are believed to be spread along the Silk Road, from the Mediterranean all the way to China in the 15th century. The opium played a special role in Chinese history, as it was the catalyst for the 2 Opium Wars in the mid-19th century. Britain smuggled Indian opium to China through the East India Company for the Chinese produced tea. This did not only lead to the warfare, but also resulted in the Chinese’s heavy addiction to opium, which lasted till 20th century and spreaded to overseas.

In fact, my grandma’s father died from overdose of opium. He was so addicted to smoking that he had to sell everything valuable at home to keep buying opium. Eventually, the rich landlord lost all his assets, as well as his life. I heard this sad story from my grandma, and I believe it’s only one of the many tragedies happened in Chinese families during that period.

The immigrants from China also brought opium smoking to America through gold rush and railroad work. As a result, opium dens became a common sight in the Chinatowns from San Francisco to the east coast of US.

Terelj National Park

https://steemitimages.com/DQmSTh6Gdh8UEhNKnD5FWLWBD6X6EP6PNwfY9DrjniEnLHQ/Mongolia2.JPG

If you ever come to this amazing park in Mongolia, you can hike to the glacial lake, Khagiin Khar Lake and the natural hot springs, visit a Buddhist monastery on a hilltop, ride horses on the steppe, watch the wildlife such as Eastern Buzzard(I saw plenty hovering over my head), brown bears(I didn’t get to see any)… If you like rock climbing, try out the many rock formations, like Turtle Rock and the Praying Lama Rock. I also learned cooking lamb from the host family, and watched locals wrestling. I will do a photo journal of this trip in another post, since this post is mainly about the poppy flower, inspired by Yellow Flower Day - The Contests of Petals by @petals.

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罂粟花

我只知道这朵美丽动人的小黄花是某种罂粟花，具体是哪种并不清楚，一搜索又是一脸懵，类似前几天的玫瑰、月季和蔷薇。根据果壳网的说法，常见的罂粟科植物有“罂粟，虞美人，冰岛罂粟（野罂粟），鬼罂粟和黑环罂粟”。产鸦片的只有罂粟一种。这里有果壳网具体的图文比较。我辨别了半天，暂且诊断这朵黄花为野罂粟吧。可能是相较欧洲的物种，亚洲的普遍偏精致？不止人类，连这来自蒙古草原的野罂粟也比样图里的冰岛罂粟娇小了一圈。

我最常见到的罂粟科的花要属虞美人了，那深深浅浅亭亭玉立的红色花朵常丛生于路边或庭园中。

说起虞美人，我国秦汉时期有霸王别姬的民间传说，清朝曾有位诗人以虞美人虞姬的口吻作诗，想象她自刎后的鲜血让江边的花儿更红：

君王意气尽江东，
贱妾何堪入汉宫；
碧血化为江边草,
花开更比杜鹃红。

而在一站时期欧洲大陆的弗兰德斯战场，鲜红的虞美人盛放在战后满目疮痍的焦土之上，仿佛是被战士的鲜血所染红。

我曾去比利时西弗兰德斯省临近法国的伊普尔小镇参观弗兰德斯战场纪念馆。第一次世界大战期间，这个位于法比交界的重要战略地区成为同盟国和协约国争夺的焦点。伊普尔曾爆发五次战役，伤亡人数100多万。这里也是全球第一次被使用化学武器的地方。

1915年春，第二次伊普尔战役期间，加拿大军医麦克雷在佛兰德斯前线痛失战友，看着战场上在微风中摇曳的鲜红虞美人，麦克雷创作出著名的诗作《在弗兰德斯战场上》，影响深远。

诗歌的开头和结尾都提到了战场上的虞美人：

在弗兰德斯战场上，
在一排排墓地的十字架旁，
罂粟花儿随风飘荡，
这是战友们长眠的地方；
……
我们将无法安息，
纵使虞美人盛开在弗兰德斯的战场上。

上面是我刚翻译的，原文节选如下：

In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place;
…
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.

之后每年的11月11日一战停战纪念日，很多人会在胸前佩戴“弗兰德斯虞美人”的鲜花或者胸针来缅怀战争中逝去的同胞。

鸦片在中国

说到罂粟，不能不提鸦片。鸦片罂粟是所有罂粟科花中尼古丁含量最高的。除了药用，罂粟籽还被认为是营养美味的食材。

鸦片罂粟的种植在15世纪时从地中海沿着丝绸之路一直传到中国。19世纪中期英国大量引入中国的印度鸦片引发了战争，导致的毒瘾泛滥一直持续到了20世纪，鸦片也随着海外淘金热和铁路修筑由华工带出了中国。从旧金山到纽约，唐人街的鸦片窟曾一度如雨后春笋般遍地开花。

我常听外婆说起这段不堪回首的往事：当年她妈妈肚子里怀着她的时候，她从未谋面的爸爸就吸食鸦片成瘾，不断变卖家产去买鸦片，从阔绰的大户人家直吸到倾家荡产，还断送了性命。可能这也是当年鸦片带给千千万万中国家庭的惨剧的一个缩影吧。

特勒吉国家公园

这朵野罂粟拍于距离蒙古首都东北边约2小时车程的特勒吉国家公园。我当时从莫斯科出发，一路搭了几列火车，走走停停，渐渐穿越广袤的西伯利亚，来到乌兰巴托，在蒙古国停留了一段时间。这个大国家公园是离首都最近的自然保护区。

在这片风光秀美的土地上，有苍翠的山谷、葱郁的森林、清澈的小溪、暖心的温泉、深不见底的冰山湖、可以攀岩的奇特岩石构造、几百种鸟类（一直有亚洲秃鹰在我头顶盘旋）、灰熊（没见着踪影）、位于山顶的佛教寺庙。更关键的，还有那最具特色的白色蒙古包，和策马奔腾的蒙古汉子，只是可惜没看到帅的，还是自己在那草甸上山谷间策马奔腾比较有意思。当然也少不了在蒙古包里宿营，跟当地人聊天，看当地人摔跤，一日三餐换着花样做羊肉吃羊肉，吃到以后看见羊肉就发怵。

这里有趣的故事太多，只是这篇的主题是“黄花”，所以下次我再放送一波照片和介绍。欢迎各位关注留言，感谢阅读！